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The site of the ancient fig tree

I'm deeply interested in understanding the history of the places I live. I'm driven to get to know the historical landscape from our earliest records to today. This process of researching brings the landscape to life and unveils the layers of history in such a way that helps me understand the country I am privileged to live, work and enjoy life on. Very soon after moving to the area I came across the story of the ancient fig tree that gave the Wollongong suburb of Figtree its name (although I never saw it standing in real life). It took a little longer for me to work out exactly where the tree had stood, but once I knew I'd always look to the spot as I drove passed it daily. It was in the Morton Bay Figtree Park by the side of the Princes Highway. Recently, I decided I was long overdue to stop in and pay my respects to this special place acknowledged by history.

This particular fig tree was considered a landmark and freak of nature by colonial visitors to the Illawarra [1]. It was a lone survivor of what had been a vast and thick temperate rain forest on the foothills of Mt Kembla. ​​Descending down the escarpment along O'Brien's Road, visitors were given directions to either go left at the giant fig tree to proceed to the township of Wollongong, or turn right to travel on to Dapto.

The Big Fig Tree at Figtree Illawarra Mercury 16.10.1867
The Big Fig Tree, Illawarra Mercury 1867

The Illawarra Mercury 16.10.1867 from the TROVE collection of the National Library of Australia

Long before Europeans noticed this giant fig tree, though, it was known and revered by the Dharawal people. Perfectly situated at the banks of a mountain creek it was a birthing place for new mothers. Newborns could be safely placed in the folds of the tree roots and washed with clean water from the creek. The gentle sounds of a mothers voice could be heard as she sung the welcome song to her newborn baby while breast feeding [2].

The Rev. William B. Clarke, on a visit to the Illawarra in 1840 noted in his diary "The road leaves that over Keira to the right, then descends to country much like the coal district of England - through a woody region to Charcoal Creek, which is bridged by palm trees, passing an enormous fig-tree, at the foot of which old Timbery, a black, was born, and which his people venerate"[3].

Fig Tree at Figtree NSW 1910 State Library of NSW

The fig tree on the Dapto Road, Illawarra, 1910. From the collections of the State Library of NSW

The tree stood proud and tall almost to the end of the 20th century. At one time the alignment of the Dapto Road (the Princes Highway of today) threatened the tree with plans to knock it down, but the local Dharawal people protested and saved the tree (seeking a reference for this often told story). In 1903 the Central Illawarra Borough Council made an application for a quarter acre of land around the fig tree to be resumed by the Crown for the purposes of making it into a public park [4].

Floods, fires lit by people seeking shelter during The Great Depression of the 1930's, and roadworks in the 1970's took their toll on the fig tree leading to disease. Attempts were made to save it but with huge branches dropping in high winds and the tree discovered to be almost hollow, it was eventually cut to a 15 metre high stump by the end of the 1980's. A rejuvenation project launched by BHP and TransGrid in consultation with Aboriginal groups and residents led to the removal of the old stump in 1997 along with landscaping and replanting [2].

Visiting this Aboriginal birthing place for the first time I was confronted by a mixture of feelings. To see the new fig tree near where the old tree had once stood, in context of its landscape, by the banks of the American Creek, just as I had read in newspaper articles and historic accounts, was truly moving. Standing there, shielded somewhat by plantings from the sounds and view of the nearby highway, you could almost imagine how it once might have been. It was wonderful to see the significance of this Dharawal site acknowledged through inscriptions telling of the Timbery family connection to this place. Queen Emma Timbery (1842–1916), wife of George Timbery (c.1839-1920), is said to have given birth to some of her children here. The story of the Yaroma spirit of the fig tree with mosaic by Vic Chapman, Graham King and Tes McLennon was something new to me and the historic information provided revealed a little more about what had happened to the tree and why it was now gone. It was lovely to finally see for myself the handsome young tree that is now growing, spreading its roots deep into the earth. This tree was produced from a cutting of the original tree by the Wollongong Botanic Gardens in 1985 and planted during the rejuvenation project in 1997 [2].

The reality of what was, and what is now a tiny corner of land wedged between the creek, the highway and motel with the park sign obscured behind branches, defaced and peeling, was a little sad though. As the cars rushed passed, and people stopped in to buy their takeaway at Chicko's across the road, I wondered how many of them knew that they were driving past an ancient Dharawal birthing place. That our society can reduce this significant site to a small forgotten corner left me with the now familiar feeling of wanting to go back in time and stop the grind of "progress".

Photos of the Morton Bay Figtree Park, Figtree NSW, June 2017

When this article was shared with the Lost Wollongong Facebook group, the artist Tess Allas added the following interesting information in the comments: "The new tree was grown from the old tree and replanted closer to the creek, away from the road. The 'Yaroma Mosaic' - the design of which I worked on with Vic Chapman and Graham King - is where the original (Timbery family birthing) tree once stood. The circumference on the mosaic is the circumference of the original tree. I remember the day we replanted the new one. Laddie Timbery was there as were many other Timbery family members" (Tess Allas 22.6.2017)".

Researched and written by Georgina - June 2017, updated March 2019.

References:

1. TROVE historic Illawarra Newspaper articles

2. Signage at Morton Bay Figtree Park 2017

3. The Rev. W.B. Clarke's visit to Wollongong 1839-1840, Michael Organ 2016

4. Illawarra Mercury 4.3.1903 "The Fig Tree" accessed through TROVE 2.3.2019

More information on:

Kembla Jottings Facebook Figtree Album

Wollongong City Council Suburb Profile

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